How to Read Crochet Patterns
I get a lot of messages asking if I have video tutorials from people who have a hard time reading patterns. Let me break that down for you in hopes it helps make it easier to read a pattern.
First and foremost, I always recommend reading a pattern all the way through before beginning. Especially if there is a “notes” or “special stitches” page in the pattern. Often, reading out loud can help, too. Sometimes hearing what we are reading helps make it make sense.
GAUGE
In my patterns, one of the first items you will come to is GAUGE. What is Gauge? This is a way to check if your final sizing is going to match up with the pattern designer’s sizing. Some items do not need gauge, but fitted clothing and accessories will definitely need gauge. This is also important if you are changing up the yarn weight. Gauge will help you determine if you need to go up or down in hook size.
Here’s an example of gauge like in my patterns:
Crochet a swatch that includes number of stitches mentioned in designer’s gauge swatch.
Measure the swatch with a ruler.
If your swatch is smaller, go up a hook size and try making gauge again. If swatch is bigger, go down a hook size and try making gauge again.
Once you’ve achieved gauge, you’re ready to begin.
ABBREVIATIONS
There should always be a legend in a pattern defining the stitch. You may want to keep this page out next to your directions pages for quick reference until you have memorized them. Listed below are a few standard abbreviations found in many patterns. If the pattern does not explain the stitch, these directions can usually be found on YouTube.
CH - Chain
DC - Double Crochet
HDC - Half Double Crochet
SC - Single Crochet
SLST - Slip Stitch
ST(S) - Stitch(es)
DIRECTIONS IN A PATTERN
Directions for crochet patterns will be written in “rows” or “rounds”. Rows always worked back and forth. They require turning, and a turning chaining. Examples would be a blanket or scarf. Rounds can be worked continuously in a circular motion or there may be turning where you will work in the opposite direction, but still in a circular motion. Examples would be a beanie or infinity scarf.
REPEATING DIRECTIONS IN A PATTERN
A row, or round of directions, may tell you to repeat certain instructions until your reach the end of that row or round. The repeat instructions are usually between asterisks or closing brackets. Example: * 1 DC in next ST; SK 2 STS * Repeat from * to * around. OR [1 DC in next ST; SK 2 STS] 3 times.
When the line of direction contains an *, you should complete the directions once, then repeat the directions the amount of times instructed or until you’ve reached the end of the row or round.
MULTIPLE DIRECTIONS IN ONE STITCH OR SPACE
Closing brackets are usually used to give you multiple stitch directions for one space or stitch.
Example: [3 DC, CH 2, 3 DC]in next CH SP - - This is a common direction in granny squares for making the corners. 3 double crochet, 2 chains, and another 3 double crochet would all be placed in the next chain space.
STITCH COUNTS
At the end of each line of direction you will generally see a number in parenthesis. This is the stitch count you should have at the end of that row or round.
Example: CH 3 (counts as a ST); place 11 double crochets in the magic circle. SLST to join. Fasten off. (12)
The 12 in the parenthesis represents how many stitches you should have ended up with.
INCREASING AND DECREASING
All pattern designers have different writing styles so sometimes it’s easy to get confused when it comes to increasing and decreasing.
Examples:
2SC in next ST (increase) or SC2TOG (decrease)
SC 2 times in next ST (increase)
Increase in the next ST; or Decrease next 2 STS
Of course, this is when stitch counts at the end of the direction line are vital so you can double check your work.
